The iconic Hans Hilfiker-designed Swiss railway clock on Andermatt station clicks to 11:54. Packed with excited tourists, the red and white-liveried Glacier Express pulls out. As we watch, serenaded by clanging warnings and flashing red lights, it rattles over the Gotthardstrasse level crossing and starts its gravity-defying switchback climb towards the snow-shrouded Oberalp Pass and, 177 km later, St. Moritz.

But we’re not on board, even though, like its passengers, we started in Zermatt and will enjoy Calandabräu and delicious local Capuns overlooking the ice-covered St. Moritzersee tonight.

One of the classic rail journeys

Summer or winter, ‘the slowest express train in the world’ is among the world’s classic rail journeys as it winds through Switzerland’s heart. However, nice as in-seat catering, recorded commentary and panoramic windows are, there’s a strong case for riding local trains – hourly Regionalzüge or ‘Regio’ that stop at every station – through the same snow-frosted Alpine landscape instead.

A sense of the real Switzerland

Doing so means you’ll share the journey, 291 bridges and 91 tunnels with local Walliser, Urner and Bündner folk. And probably in less-crowded carriages where you can easily swap sides to photograph the ever-changing winter wonderland. What’s more, you’ll get a greater sense of the real Switzerland served by the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn and Rhätische Bahn’s narrow-gauge trains. Best of all – with careful timetable planning – you can hop on and off to explore places that Glacier Express passengers only see fleetingly from their seats.

Steaming coffee and scrumptious Vanill-Schnäggu pastries from Bäckerei Zuber on Brig’s Bahnhofstrasse? A stroll around snow-bedecked Andermatt or Hospental? Or how about visiting Filisur’s curving Land-wasser Viadukt where trains emerge from a sheer cliff face to cross the Glacier Express’s towering architectural poster child?

And then, shortly before reaching the Engadine’s blue skies and champagne air, there is pretty little Bergün/Bravuogn and the Albulatal’s spiralling tunnels to savour.

The focus for several days’ exploration

From Zermatt to St. Moritz, the journey takes around eight hours. Add some en-route diversions and you’ll easily extend your adventure by several rewarding hours. Alternatively, how about making the Glacier Express route your focus for several days’ exploration?

Since the first Glacier Express steamed out of the Matterhorn’s shadow in 1930, it’s become one of Switzerland’s top tourist attractions. But for the truest Helvetic experience, I’d still recommend those hourly Regionalzüge on any winter day.