At last, we’d reached the high point of a walk that began in shady woods, followed the River Wye and culminated in a steep climb to one of the Forest of Dean’s most adored viewpoints.

As we unpacked coffee and sandwiches, we watched curiously as a middle-aged couple in camouflage gear peered intently through spotting scopes at the wooded cliffs of nearby Coldwell Rocks. Inquisitive visitors who asked what they were viewing were invited to look – at Symonds Yat’s renowned peregrine falcons. To my shame, though I’d walked the valley below, I had never visited this sublime lookout. Now, at last, I’d put that right.

Bluebell woods and deer

Earlier, we’d set off from our campsite atop Herefordshire’s Doward, high above Symonds Yat West’s steep lanes and cute cottages. We had descended through bluebell woods, passed old caves and mine workings, and even glimpsed a septet of shy deer through the trees. Eventually, by the gently flowing Wye, we’d eschewed the famous chain ferry. Instead, after following the river south, we crossed the swaying Biblins pedestrian suspension bridge.

Our ascent of Symonds Yat Rock began gently as we headed back north to Symonds Yat East’s Saracen’s Head Inn and its smart houses – including the famous red and white chalet from the hit TV show, ‘Sex Education’.

After leaving the riverbank, hard-working leg muscles prompted memories of our 2022 Via Gottardo walk as the path climbed through the forest. Atop the Rock at last, we savoured the breathtaking vistas over the Wye’s incised meanders, the peregrines’ precipitous eyrie and the lush meadows where cattle grazed and horse riders cantered far below.

Childhood memories

Our post-picnic descent was straightforward, the return to the suspension bridge relaxing and refreshments at Biblins Tea House a well-deserved treat. There was even time for a nostalgic look at Biblins Youth Campsite’s now unused timber lodge. For generations of local youngsters – including Mrs H – recalling school trips to the idyllic riverside site always evokes fond memories.

Later, afternoon’s shadows lengthened and thoughts turned to supper as we retraced the morning’s route back up through Lords Wood. Celebrating my introduction to Symonds Yat, I wondered how I’d left it so long since moving to Gloucestershire. I’m sure we’ll return soon.
If you know the place, you’ll know why we loved our day out so much. And if you don’t, maybe it’s time to enjoy a magnificent autumn walk in the peregrines’ mystic domain.