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Downhill through the Dolomites
All Areas > Travel > Holidays & Travel
Author: Al Hidden, Posted: Wednesday, 23rd February 2022, 09:00
It’s a sunny summer morning in Italy’s majestic South Tyrol. After breakfast (at 838m/2,749 ft) we bade vibrant Brunico (Bruneck) farewell with a last glance up at its hilltop thirteenth-century castle.
Pedalling east along the Alta Val Pusteria, the route leads us through pine-scented forests towards Dobbiaco (Toblach), one of the gateways to the Dolomites. Along the way, we admire impressive Lago di Valdaora, then picnic on Weckerl, Heumilchkäse and delicious local strawberries in idyllic alpine meadows. Later still, towards day’s end, we imagine hearing Mahler’s Ninth as we pass his former composing cabin.
Sky-scraping limestone crags
The breathtaking scenery of the Alto Adige, fascinating Italo-Germanic culture and immersion in Süd-tirolers’ rich folklore typify the mainly downhill ride to Asola (210 m/690 ft), Veneto’s ‘City of a Hundred Horizons’, which lies ahead.
A couple of days later, rolling into chic Cortina d’Ampezzo, we rub shoulders with northern Italy’s jet set. The town evokes memories of 1956’s Winter Olympics, Ford’s multi-million selling car and ‘For Your Eyes Only’, Roger Moore’s fifth Bond movie.
However, despite such fame, it’s the pale, sky-scraping limestone crags surrounding the resort that steal the show every time! It’s no wonder Swiss architect Le Corbusier reputedly described the Dolomites as the world’s most beautiful mountains.
Stage three of a trip that is comfortably doable in 11 days (including whole days in Asolo, Brunico, Dobbiaco and Cortina) begins with more leisurely valley riding to Calalzo di Cadore. From there, some organised cycle tours break the ride with a train journey.
Alternatively, historic Via Alemagna – part of the celebrated Munich-Venice cycle route – descends gently along the wooded Piave valley to the eastern Dolomites’ most important town. A further 24 miles (38km) on easy forest trails, between somnolent villages that beg you to stop and sample local gastronomy, brings you to Feltre and Asolo.
World-class grappa and prosecco
The journey nearly complete, it’s time to toast your achievement with the region’s world-class grappa and prosecco. Then relax awhile in Asolo or visit nearby Bassano del Grappa to view the impressive Bridge of the Alpini over the River Brenta – imagine Lucerne’s Kapellbrücke on stilts!
With waning memories of 2021, days lengthen and thoughts turn to two-wheeled adventuring at home and further afield. For an unforgettable cycling experience, these ‘pale mountains’, the ‘monti pallidi’, could be perfect.
Will you travel independently or on an organised cycling holiday? Either way, maybe it’s the year to saddle up for the ultimate Dolomites cycling tour. Andiamo!Copyright © 2024 The Local Answer Limited.
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