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Aberystwyth – over the hills but not so far away

All Areas > Travel > Holidays & Travel

Author: Al Hidden, Posted: Monday, 10th August 2020, 11:00

Aberystwyth Image: www.visitwales.com

With doors securely closed, the Aberystwyth Cliff Railway funi-cular comes to life. As we climb away from the Grade II listed bottom station, the town’s curv-ing seafront is revealed over the rooftops: Victoria Terrace; the bandstand where Led Zeppelin jammed in their late-1960s infancy; the Royal Pier; and further south the verdant downs beyond Penparcau Beach.

Five minutes later, approaching the top of the 1:2 gradient at Constitution Hill, I ponder the idea that this was the scene of Britain’s only transport disaster involving a funicular and two elephants. Yes, really! If you don’t believe me, Google it!

No need for an air bridge to Wales

Just over the ‘Misty Mountains’ of Mid Wales that Zeppelin’s Robert Plant referenced so eloquently, Aberystwyth has long tempted with the promise of easy travel from Gloucester-shire. Now, with staycations looking more appealing than ever and no need for an air bridge to Wales, Ceredigion’s seaside jewel, lodged beguil-ingly ‘twixt those mountains and the glittering Irish Sea, looks irresistible.

The three-hour drive west (maybe a bit less in July’s road test McLaren) is always a joy – and sublime when the weather gods are being kind. From dolphins cavorting playfully in the harbour, to an eclectic mix of restaurants and cafes, the imposing National Library of Wales and breathtaking sunsets, Aberystwyth and its surrounds offer so much at journey’s end.

Rewarding experiences in every direction

On foot, the magnificent Ceredigion Coast Path calls to walkers. Then there’s the Dyfi Estuary and Machynlleth, home to the acclaimed Centre for Alternative Technology and – nearby at a remote cottage called Bron-yr-Aur – birthplace of Led Zeppelin’s folk-inspired third album. Both are an easy run north of Aberystwyth.

Nature lovers will adore the RSPB’s Ynys-hir reserve with its magnificent estuary views. Later, time allowing before heading back, turn off the A487 at Furnace to explore fairy-tale Cwm Einion (Artist’s Valley). Like so much of the area, it’s another magical location steeped richly in Led Zeppelin lore.

And that’s just to the north of this delightful university and resort town. From experience on many visits, journeying out of Aberystwyth in any direction will reward you richly. And at day’s end, whether you’ve cycled the Rheidol Valley, scoffed fish and chips on Borth Beach or Zep Trekked in the footsteps of Plant, Page, Jones and Bonham, Aberystwyth’s warm welcome awaits you again.

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Image: www.visitwales.com

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