It was all down to Charley Boorman and his motorcycle! He turned us on to Taiwan in general and the twisting mountain highway from Hualien County, through Taroko National Park, in particular.

After breakfasting on traditional Taiwanese Congee and other goodies, we’d started early and followed the Liwu River away from the Pacific and into the deepening Taroko Gorge – the ‘Jewel of Taiwan’. Soon we’ll say ‘Lí-hó’ to its breathtaking landscapes.

Exploring Mysterious Valley Trail

Despite minor earth tremors, we’d slept well, treated royally at the cute-named Crossing the Rainbow Bridge Bed & Breakfast beside the blue-arched road bridge over the Liwu. Now, beating the crowds, an hour into our drive through Taiwan’s central mountains we pull off the two-lane road under the watchful gaze of signature white carved-stone guardian lions.

Leaving the car for a while, we walk the Shakadang River – aka ‘Mysterious Valley’ – Trail, along a deeply incised tributary of the Liwu. The narrow path twists under lofty cliffs carved from tortured convolutions of eons-long orogeny. Observation platforms, cool romantic grottoes, aquamarine pools and polished river rock make this a must-see Taroko Gorge highlight at any season.

One of the world’s most challenging roads

Trailside notices warn of hazards as diverse as falling rocks, wild animals, poisonous snakes and – yes, really – killer bees! On this mild November day, however, we meet none. After a couple of hours exploring the Shakadang, a tsunami of coaches has disgorged hordes of day-trippers.

It’s time to continue along Taiwan’s Cross-Island Highway, reputedly one of the world’s most dangerous. The journey tests our concentration to the limit, plus everything learned during two decades of advanced driver training.

Eight hours later, shattered after crossing the 3275m Wuling Pass, we eventually reach the Crystal Resort Hotel in lakeside Ita Thao – our base for several days and, tip, infinitely nicer than the big west-shore resorts. It’s dark and, already, Taroko National Park seems a lifetime away. Yet its memory is already etched as enduringly in our minds as the Shakadang’s schist and marble cliffs that awed us earlier.

Visit before it’s too late

Taiwan’s future looks ominously uncertain. Given possible change ahead, maybe time will prove that now’s a good time to visit, explore the spectacular landscapes, enjoy delicious island food and meet the welcoming Taiwanese. Don’t wait too long. Sadly – and I pray I’m wrong – others’ ambitions for Taiwan may soon mean it’s too late…