It’s a sunny spring day and we’re lost in France, closer by train to London than Cheltenham, while lunching beneath the Boulevard de la Liberté’s plane trees. This isn’t Paris; it’s a closer, equally enjoyable, French destination.

Halfway through our stay, we’ve given Le Vieux Lille and the Rue de Gand’s shoulder-to-shoulder estaminets a miss. Make no mistake, their cheese-laden Welshs, waterzooi and sweet gaufres are delicious.

However, as in Prague recently, our culinary highlight is a small organic vegan restaurant called La Clairière – The Meadow. We can’t recommend it enough; easyJet’s magazine, ‘Elle’ and other reviewers agree. And it’s dog-friendly too!

Very walkable

Since arriving at the excellent Boa Hotel on Place Des Reignaux, it’s been easy to forget we’re just 90 minutes from London. Lille is very walkable with plenty to entertain for days. If your feet need a rest, public transport is excellent. Or take a leisurely tour in a classic Citroën 2CV!

Whether exploring in the footsteps of President Charles de Gaulle – born on Rue Princesse amid the old town’s stunning 17th century architecture – or discovering modern Lille, every Rue, Place and Parc delights.

Cosy estaminets and corner bakeries are everywhere; Boulangerie Paul is always a good bet. There’s no shortage of romantic cafés either; perfect for people-watching with a reviving coffee or typically Gallic Ricard apéritif. And of course, being close to Belgium, the frites and mayo (tip: Friterie Meunier!) are the best.

Don’t miss Christian de Porzamparc’s emblematic post-modern ‘ski boot’ tower or Yayoi Kusama’s Haribo-hued Shangri-La Tulips dominating Euralille. In contrast, Vieux Lille repeatedly enticed us back into its labyrinthine streets – including Lille’s shortest, 20m long Rue du Petit Paon.

Meanwhile, the Porte de Paris (Lille’s ‘Arc de Triomphe’) and the town hall’s towering Art Deco belfry add more variety. Wander further and former Gare Saint-Sauveur hosts engaging art exhibitions while Wazemmes market, among France’s most famous, is also worth visiting.

Citadelle Vauban

At some point, you’ll surely reach star-shaped Citadelle Vauban and share its sun-dappled paths with friendly Lillois. Visit the zoo, hire an electric boat to explore the surrounding canals or just relax in this sublime urban oasis. There’s nothing more peaceful than watching sheep grazing beneath its ramparts under the watchful eyes of their gorgeous guardian dogs!

For a place we’d once dismissed as ‘just another stop before Paris’, we adored Lille’s architecture, cuisine and welcoming residents. The ‘Capital of Flanders’ definitely offers a wonderful, easily accessible alternative to ‘the City of Light’ – or visit both for a perfect two-centre French break. Now there’s a bonne idée!