We’ve stopped by the blue(ish) Danube in Budapest’s heart. Late spring sunshine bathes our faces as we study dozens of life-sized shoes cast in iron – some arranged neatly, some abandoned untidily – along the waterside promenade. Each is a poignant memorial to another sad chapter in city history.

The 60 pairs – men’s, women’s and children’s – symbolise people shot and thrown into the Danube during the Arrow Cross Party’s 1944-45 reign of terror. Why shoes? Leather was a valuable commodity; they were taken from the victims.

Behind us, the Hungarian Parliament’s freshly cleaned neo-Gothic façade dominates the Danube’s left bank. Across the river, Buda Castle stands imperiously on its limestone hill. It’s nearly lunchtime; the creamy, cheesy comfort of deep-fried Lángos would be nice, but local street food can wait. Nothing else is needed. The scene alone, poignant and magnificent, sums up a brilliant stay in Hungary’s capital.

So walkable

Apart from a brief rail trip to riverside Szentendre, Budapest offered everything needed to fill a week – and leave more for next time. We travelled with Jet2 and stayed at the conveniently located Continental Hotel off Pest’s buzzing Dohány utca. We’d recommend both! Though bus, tram and Metro services are efficient, the city is so walkable that we explored on foot. You see more, and absorb more, that way.

Don’t miss the Hospital in the Rock near Buda Castle or the friendly little 4 Minutes Café nearby. An evening at the Hungarian State Opera, or just a peek inside, will impress. So should coffee, cake and people watching at the magnificent New York Café.

Given Hungary’s troubled history, the House of Terror Museum delivers an informative, if harrowing, experience. Don’t miss Budapest’s magnificent Széchenyi Thermal Baths either – or the impressive new Museum of Ethnography building close by. As for food, both Google and local recommendations helped us choose: we loved cosy Szabad Bisztró, Kara Café near Heroes’ Square and delicious Lángos with locals in the Central Market Hall.

Fascinating history

From the Austro-Hungarian Empire to 1956’s Hungarian Uprising and Cold War times, Budapest is a history-lover’s delight. Hungary’s past is complex, but times change and today’s city blends fascinating history, lively modernity, welcoming people, stunning architecture and good cuisine with the perfection of well-cooked Gulyás or sweet, fresh-baked Chimney Cakes.

We loved Budapest. It was always interesting, impressively clean, felt safe and delivered wonderful ambience. If you’ve visited, you’ll know what we mean. If not, you really should say ‘Jó reggelt Budapest!’ and explore!