A tram rattles past the medieval tower at the end of Charles Bridge and the banners and flags on St. Salvator’s Church proclaim Czech support for Ukraine. We’d explored ultra-walkable central Prague all morning, traversed Old Town Square with its exquisite astronomical clock, then crossed the Vltava and climbed to Prague Castle.

Later, atop neighbouring St. Vitus Cathedral’s tower, going up more than 280 spiral steps proved worth it for the sublime panoramas over Prague’s red rooftops. And everywhere, that support for Ukraine – and Praguers’ warm welcome – was tangible.

Our Prague spring was nicer than 1968’s

Locals appreciate what Ukraine is going through better than most. It’s 55 years since, decades before the fall of the Iron Curtain, Soviet tanks rumbled into Wenceslas Square. In contrast, the city now cherishes visitors like us; on a cold March Tuesday with sleet in the air, just enough fellow visitors heighten the atmosphere. Our Prague spring, made special by Martin’s team at the perfectly located Michelangelo Grand Hotel, is so much nicer than 1968’s.

Driving in from the airport, Roman – from the excellent Prague Airport Transfers – gave us a free map and guidebook and shared insider tips for our four days in ‘the city of a hundred spires’. The Old Town, Wenceslas Square, Jewish Quarter and poster-child medieval bridge are musts.

So are Frank Gehry’s post-modern ‘Ginger and Fred’ Dancing House and the city’s skyline-dominating castle. The Gothic cathedral, green-domed St. Nicholas Church and Petřín Hill’s Eiffelesque tower above the city also reward a walk or tram ride. But it’s also worth leaving the usual tourist tracks.

Avoid obvious tourist haunts

Not least for cuisine, Smetana and Franz Kafka’s city rewards if you eschew its obvious haunts. Vegetarian restaurant Lehká hlava, tucked away on Boršov, is barely a stone’s throw from overpriced Old Town eateries. But its value, quality and welcome for a relaxed birthday lunch was unforgettable.

Continuing the culinary theme, cosy St. Martin on Vlašská 7 is another quiet backwater restaurant. And for Prague’s famous, sweet, filled-pastry Trdelniks? Visit Trdlo at Mostecká 55 – unmissable when wandering west off Prague’s most famous bridge!

Because it wasn’t bombed as badly as many European cities during WWII, Prague’s medieval architecture remains impressively original. Keeping a watchful eye out for pick-pockets, ignore the souvenir and cannabis stores – possession was decriminalised in 2010 – and marvel at the history.

Then enjoy another revitalising coffee and pastry! We loved Liberica Café on Valentinská, near the Jewish Quarter. It’s the kind of gem that perfectly complements spring days in Prague. And reminds you that this is real Bohemian life, not just a travel fantasy!