Afternoon’s shadows lengthen as we near the Harbor Mountain trailhead. Today’s hike is under perfect blue skies, with the highest June temperatures for years ensuring our appreciation of the extra water we brought.

After our 1700m ascent from town, the views over Sitka Sound on Gavan Hill Trail were sublime. Perception of Alaska may be icy and snowy, but on days like these, above the timberline at 57° N, without a care in the world, ‘Baked Alaska’ says everything.

Then we hear the bear’s gentle ‘just letting you know I’m here guys’ growl from the bushes. We exchange knowing glances, remember the advice from the ranger’s office, shake bear bells for good measure and carry on – with more than one backward glance. Reaching the trailhead, we hitch a ride back down to Sitka, frosted Budweisers by the water and a well-earned seafood supper.

Sitka: the USA’s largest city

Sitka is guaranteed to thrill. From the breathtaking approach – among the world’s trickiest – to water-surrounded Rocky Gutierrez Airport, to its impressive walking trails, the former Alaskan capital is a sure-fire memory maker.

When not exploring the area’s subalpine meadows, whale watching for ‘humpies’ or enjoying sea otter antics, an acclaimed raptor centre and charming Russian-era architecture – the US bought Alaska from Russia for $7.2m in 1867 – complement the magical sea-to-summit location.

Sitka is a sports fishing paradise too. And sea kayaking around Japonski Island – eerily close to landing aircraft as you paddle past the runway thresholds – adds unforgettable perspective on the USA’s largest city. It’s true: a population of around 10,000 belies the fact that, by area, little Sitka is the USA’s largest city!

Alaska is seriously big and impressive

Our June visit, combined with voyaging north to Juneau on the Alaska Marine Highway, and time in Seattle before and after, coincided with Sitka’s driest month. Come fall, everything changes with typically high Pacific Northwest precipitation.

For good weather, June, July and August are your warmest, driest friends when exploring this corner of the USA’s largest state. A tip: unless yours really is a mega-trip, think carefully before combining the pan-handle with visiting the rest of the state.

Alaska, like Harbor Mountain’s views and delicious fresh-catch salmon suppers at Beak or Ludwig’s, is seriously big and impressive. Maybe too big to fully appreciate on one trip. We’re looking forward to another visit to the state whose name comes from the Aleut ‘aleyska’. It means ‘great land’. And, come rain or hot June sunshine, it is!