From somewhere, French chanteuse Sylvie Vartan sings ‘Novembre à La Rochelle’ as you pull into the Parking Vieux Port Ouest after driving south. Moments later, as the sun falls towards the Bay of Biscay, you’re strolling the old port beneath La Tour St Nicholas and Tour de la Chaîne, and admiring the striking murals on harbour-side buildings to the accompaniment of chattering rigging and dancing water-lights on snow-white yacht hulls.

There’s no wrong time to visit

With its Mediterranean-like climate, there really isn’t a wrong time to visit this jewel on France’s Atlantic coast. Come by road, rail or direct flight: whether diverting from a Brittany tour, passing through en route to south-western France, or as your main destination, look forward to being enchanted by northern Nouvelle-Aquitaine’s ocean gateway.

There’s great accommodation aplenty, ranging from marina-side luxury to gems like our Airbnb apartment in L’Houmeau, just north of town. We loved this relaxed seaside community with its easy access to central La Rochelle, proximity to the sleepy waterways of Parc Naturel Régional du Marais Poitevin, and stunning sunsets. It also has convenient access to the swooping bridge leading to Île de Ré’s extensive beaches, Phare des Baleines lighthouse, salt marshes and sleepy fishing villages – make sure to visit La Flotte.

Explore La Rochelle’s historic quays and lanes

Back in La Rochelle, the old port is the focal point as you wander quays and sleepy lanes for hours between shady Parc Charruyer and the city’s impressive aquarium. Don’t miss the maritime museum either, before stocking up on picnic treats at the Marché du Centre Ville on Rue Gambetta.

After adventuring on foot, a public Yélo bike or electric ‘Le Passeur’ ferries, enjoy the city’s acclaimed cuisine. La Rochelle’s location between Esnandes’s mussel nets and the oyster beds of Le bassin de Marennes means seafood reigns supreme.

That said, all tastes should be delighted with restaurants such as Le Gaburon, Prao and A 2 Pas Du Marché covering every culinary base. Then for an authentic local nightcap, stroll in Fromentin, Sartre and Simenon’s footsteps to La Cave de la Guignette – tucked away near Quai Louis Durand.

If you’re visiting for the duration of your holiday or just passing through, you’ll soon see why La Rochelle and its hinterland have beguiled visitors for so long. Whether under the cobalt skies of high season, or in quieter November, the magic is the same. La Rochelle: c’est formidable!