Think Madeira and imagine a quiet wintering ground for elderly Brits fleeing our winter. Now think again! Okay, if you’re after hedonistic clubbing and drinking, Funchal is no Magaluf (not even close). But for a rewarding, grown-up holiday experience with lovely weather, breathtaking scenery and delicious food, the ‘Pearl of the Atlantic’ has it all.

After your four-hour flight from the UK, there’s an impressive (sometimes turbulent) approach to Aeroporto da Madeira Cristiano Ronaldo – named after one of Madeira’s most famous sons. With its coastal location and award-winning runway extension on hundreds of 70-metre-high columns, it’s one of the world’s most challenging airports for pilots.

Accommodation for all budgets
Maybe you want a friendly B&B like TJ Walking, overlooking the city from Livramento, and with the bonus of expat Trevor’s encyclopaedic advice on Madeira’s walks? How about central Funchal’s classy Hotel The Vine, with local designer Nini Andrade Silva’s viticulture-inspired interiors? Or perhaps it’s the Belmond Reid’s Palace (’the Raffles of the Atlantic’) for you? Whatever you choose, Funchal will delight. All are near attractions such as the Mercado dos Lavradores (farmers’ market), or the cableway to the acclaimed botanical gardens and thrilling wicker-toboggan rides down Monte’s steep, narrow streets. Alternatively, perhaps you just want to stroll the Avenida do Mar, watch the cruise ships and relax in Santa Catarina Park.

A taste of Madeira
Hungry? Funchal offers marvellous dining for every budget. At the credit-card-testing end, try Cris’s or Armazem do Sol. Alternatively, enjoy delicious ‘cheap eats’ at O Avo or the Jasmin Tea House. Either way, you won’t go hungry tucking into picado, espada (black scabbard fish), bacalhau (codfish), fried Milho Frito cornmeal cubes or myriad vegan and vegetarian options at places like Olives.

A great base for exploring
Whether you hire a car, walk or take the bus, Funchal also makes a great base for excursions. How about a coastal levada walk to the pretty fishing village of Camara dos Lobos? Or take the bus up to Madeira’s wild north-east to walk spectacular trails overlooking the Atlantic?

Whether you stay in Funchal, or explore every levada waterway, Madeira can entertain for a week or longer. Plan your visit, fasten your seatbelt for that landing, then discover how the island earned its reputation as a sunny bolthole for discerning travellers.