When you think of Japan, do you imagine Tokyo’s frenetic Shibuya Crossing, Kyoto’s temples or Mount Fuji? They’re amazing, as we discovered on our first trip. However, fly north from Tokyo and the island of Hokkaido offers sublime autumn experiences – but book your accommodation now if you’re planning to visit for October’s colours.

Hokkaido, home to the indigenous Ainu, offers a mesmerising kaleidoscope of fertile agricultural lowlands, towering mountains, imposing coast and Sapporo’s city vibrancy. Hire a car and head for the UNESCO protected Shiretoko peninsula. Nearing Hotel Chinohate, look for Salmon-hunting bears, then enjoy a delicious, beautifully presented traditional supper, skinny-dip in a steaming Onsen and sleep deeply on a comfy futon.

Hokkaido’s lake district
Then drive over the Shiretoko Pass, with views to Russia, along remarkably lightly trafficked highways to Hokkaido’s lake district. There’s a warm welcome at Yado Hanafurai B&B at Kussharo – and wild deer outside your window. Next, cruise switchback Highway 241 with its jaw-dropping views of Mount Oakan, explore sacred Lake Akan and marvel at its mysterious green Marimo algae spheres.

Wake to winter’s first snow
The scenery keeps thrilling as you circle the Daisetsuzan range before driving through the autumnal browns and yellows of the forested valley to Grand Hotel Daisetsu and a delicious spider crab feast. Maybe you’ll wake to winter’s first snow – Hokkaido is renowned for amazing powder. Ride the cable car higher, walk in fresh snow and breathe champagne air while admiring Asahi-Dake and its steaming volcanic fumaroles.

Heading on, marvel at rainbow-coloured flower fields and savour delicious Japanese curry with the locals at Furano’s Yuiga Doxon. Reaching Sapporo, check in at your hotel (we loved the Mercure near Susukino subway station) and start enjoying city life. Head up the JR Tower for spectacular city views, shop ‘til you drop, daytrip to seaside Otaru or stroll Odori Park to the ‘Eifelesque’ Sapporo TV Tower with someone special.

Hakodate’s lights
Your Hokkaido visit is nearly over, but there’s a last treat if you travel south to Russian-influenced Hakodate and ascend Mt Hakodate to celebrate sunset, and the impressive city lights, with myriad Japanese. Then catch the Hokkaido Shinkensen through the 54km Seikan tunnel to mainland Honshu and Tokyo.

When you say ‘Sayonara’ to Japan, we’re sure you’ll fly home with memories out of all proportion to the time spent there. We did!