‘Be careful near the surf,’ implores our driver, Vignar at Reynisfjara’s black-sand beach on Iceland’s gale-blasted coast, ‘the sneaker waves are deadly.’ Minutes later, a careless selfie-taker is overwhelmed before, soaked and very lucky, regaining his feet to escape Neptune’s ice water grasp.

As Vignar explains, the waves, which epitomise the beauty and danger that go hand in hand in Iceland’s landscape, regularly drown the unwary.

Fairy tale waterfalls

We’re south east of Reykjavik on Iceland’s Ring Road, on a four-day trip to Iceland’s iconic landmarks with locally-based Arctic Adventures. Today, it’s Reynisfjara, the fairy tale Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss waterfalls, Jökulsárlón’s iceberg-strewn Diamond Beach and Breiðamerkurjökull glacier’s icefields and balloon-tyred monster-buses.

Another day, in another direction, we explore Iceland’s Golden Circle, the geothermal geysers of Haukadalur and ancient Þingvellir national park. And look out for the hardy little Icelandic horses – never call them ‘ponies’ – passed en route to Snaefellsnes’s snowy wonderland, pitch-dark lava tunnels and mighty Snæfellsjökull. You won’t miss it; it’s the classically-shaped stratovolcano that served as an entrance to the subterranean adventure by Jules Verne’s characters in ‘A Journey to the Centre of the Earth’.

Enjoy the view while someone else drives

Our mid-March tour perfectly complemented time in Reykjavik. Was it a wimp’s alternative to self-drive? Definitely not; letting experienced locals wrestle with snow, ice and vehicle-tipping wind on Iceland’s challenging winter highways made perfect sense and we learned lots from our knowledgeable guides.

Best of all, we enjoyed travelling without the tiringly intense concentration demanded by Iceland’s treacherous winter roads. And after each day’s adventures, we were still fresh enough to savour delicious lamb, ling and salmon specialities in cosy hotels such as Hofn’s Guesthouse Gerði.

Finances allowing – given alcohol prices as eye-watering as Icelandic winds – look forward to a glass or two of local Brennivín schnapps as a well-deserved nightcap.

City sightseeing in Reykjavik

Back in Reykjavik, prices are equally imposing, though bargains are there if you look. City sightseeing is rewarding too. Ranging from the sky-scraping neoclassical cathedral to fjord-side Sun Voyager sculpture, you’ll easily fill several days. Whether with architecture or nature, singer Björk’s homeland constantly challenges superlatives. Everything you’ve heard is true – and more.

Iceland is genuinely awesome and, like those sneaker waves, keeps delivering breathtaking surprises. Then, when you think you’ve seen it all, the dancing Northern Lights come out to mesmerise with a free night-time show. It’s amazing!