Picture a tiny Bavarian enclave surrounded by Austria. Summer or winter, this Teutonic Narnia is reached through the ‘wardrobe’ of Salzburg airport. One of Berchtesgadener Land’s many jewels is pretty Ramsau – the German Alpine Association’s first ‘mountaineering village’ and home to Germany’s most photographed church, St Sebastian. Fancy a post-Christmas break with walks in the snow, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing or exhilarating tobogganing? Let’s go!

Blazing log fires

There’s lots of good accommodation in and around Ramsau and nearby Berchtesgaden. Choices range from cosy B&Bs to luxury hotels, such as Berghotel Rehlegg where we stayed. It’s not cheap, but from your first welcoming glass of sparkling Sekt, it’s a joy. You could spend your whole vacation within its grounds, enjoying the indoor and outdoor pools, a spa and delicious food, or simply relaxing by blazing log fires while snow falls and cheeky black Alpendohlen swoop and chirrup outside.

Family-run Berghotel Rehlegg is a perfect base for winter adventuring: on foot, snowshoes, cross-country skis, or by bus – using your free visitors’ pass. Local highlights include well marked walking trails through the snow and icicle-bedecked Zauberwald – the magic forest – to Hintersee. On another afternoon, we followed the beautiful Klausbachtal, admired amazing wildlife sculptures, watched wild deer feeding at the Rotwild Wintergehege, then enjoyed coffee and delicious homemade pastries at cosy Gasthof Auzinger – we highly recommend trying it!

Romantic Königsee

Midweek found us in Berchtesgaden, where famous former residents include actress Romy Schneider, and Adolf Hitler. Wander up to Lockstein for breathtaking views of Berchtesgaden and Germany’s third highest peak – the Watzmann. The Watzmann ‘family’ dominates another local attraction, romantic Königsee. Stunning in summer, this steep sided fjord-like lake acquires a new, magical personality in winter. It’s a short bus ride from Berchtesgaden, or several hours on foot from Ramsau.

More than just walking in a winter wonderland

Strolling in the snow isn’t all Ramsau offers. If not skiing or snowshoe trekking, how about hiring a toboggan and helmet and sledging the breathtaking 2.3km long, 360m height difference, Hirscheckblitz Rodelbahn?

Later, refuel with the Berghotel’s delicious five-course buffet supper. From local trout and melt-in-the mouth organic pork, to Bavarian venison and delicious vegetarian choices, every meal is a feast.

Too soon, the week’s over, you’re buying souvenirs at Emmy Landhaler’s little shop (Im Tal 64), saying ‘Fuerti Bayern’ and heading home. But like so many visitors to Ramsau, we’re sure you’ll return...