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Magical Matsumoto and Takayama

All Areas > Travel > Holidays & Travel

Author: Al Hidden, Posted: Wednesday, 25th July 2018, 09:00

Matsumoto Castle Matsumoto Castle

It’s been a while since we journeyed to Japan. I’m getting restless for proper sushi, anime and bowing train attendants. So while I plan, here’s a taster for a November visit to Honshu’s heart. It’s the perfect time to see autumn’s colours. Let’s go…

From Tokyo, we head west with JR Rail to Matsumoto in Nagano prefecture. At Shinjuku Station buy Bento boxes for brunch, then sit back and enjoy the three-hour journey. More delights, scenic and cultural, await you in Matsumoto, as well as a good choice of accommodation. We enjoyed traditional hospitality at family-run Ryokan Seifuso; Ryokans are great, but if you prefer larger, European-style hotels, there are plenty. Whatever you choose, book early!

Mighty Matsumoto Castle

Mighty Matsumoto Castle, the City Museum of Art and Taisho Pond (the latter, outside town) are top attractions. If you only visit one, make it the Hirashiro (‘flatland’) style castle with its sophisticated defensive moats, gates, walls and ‘nightingale’ floors – early intruder alarms. The architecture, calming surrounding park and exhibits engaged us for hours – I challenge you not to picture Rowan Atkinson’s ‘Snickers’ Ninja!

Eating out can be as adventurous as you wish, ranging from Kobayashi-Soba to European-style dining and bakeries such as SWEET Co.Nawate. Still hungry? The ubiquitous 7-Eleven stores are always good for late night Onigiri rice balls and other snacks.

Through the mountains to Takayama

We continue to Hida-Takayama by rail or a glorious two-hour mountain drive. We loved the friendly, centrally located Minshuku Kuwataniya, which is ideal for exploring Takayama’s old town, Shiroyama Park and Hida-Takayama Miyagawa morning market. In November, the riverbank walkway is a riot of autumn colours, while 15 minutes away by train, Hida Furukawa’s lanes, koi streams and Ichi No Machi Coffee shop is a great excursion. So is a day-trip to the UNESCO World Heritage villages of Shirakawa-go and Gokayama. From the minute you first glimpse the distinctive Gassho-style houses, we’re sure you’ll be entranced by this beautifully preserved pocket of Japanese rural life.

The effect of the Land of the Rising Sun

Even allowing for a day recovering from jet-lag on arrival, Tokyo, Matsumoto and Takayama can be combined in a week. However, two are better, especially if you also want to visit Kyoto’s temples and feed Nara’s famous deer. When planning your trip, just remember that Honshu is deceptively large – don’t attempt too much! You can always visit again; the Land of the Rising Sun has that effect!

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Takayama

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